Textiles
Tapestry, yarns, and dye theory for color
Traditional natural dyes include indigo and woad for blue; a warm red came from madder and red also came from dried insects known as Kermes, and from cochineal and Brazilwood. Purples were made from the orchilis lichen, and the various mordants available together with blending, gave a wide range of colours. Dyers preferred resources that proved resistant to light so they were always on the watch for botanical discoveries.
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"Indian Collecting Cochineal with a Deer Tail" from Memoria sobre la naturaleza, cultivo, y beneficio de la grana
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| Scale insects on leaves, or paddles, of cactus produce a red acidic substance |
The cochineal is a scale insect, from which the natural dye carmine is derived. This insect lives on cacti in the genus Opuntia, feeding on plant moisture and nutrients. These insects are found on the pads of prickly pear cacti, then are brushed off and dried. The insect produces carminic acid that deters predation by other insects. Carminic acid, typically 17-24% of dried insects' weight, can be extracted from the body and eggs, then mixed with aluminium or calcium salts to make carmine dye, also known as cochineal. The carmine dye was used in Central America in the 15th century for coloring fabrics and became an important export good. This dye has been an important economic commodity and has created fascinating mysteries and intrigues.
Table I: Natural Sources of Plant Dyes and Ink
References______________________________________
Botanical Inks : Plant-to-Print Dyes, Techniques and Projects Behan
Feeser, Andrea. Red, White, Et Black Make Blue: Indigo in the Fabric of Colonial South Carolina Life. Athens, Ga: Univ. of Georgia Press, 2013. Print.
Tapestry in the Baroque: Threads of Splendor by Thomas P. Campbell, Pascal-François Bertrand, Jeri Bapasola, Palacio Real (Madryt)., Metropolitan Museum of Art (New York, N.Y.)
St, Clair K. The Secret Lives of Colour. , 2016. Print.
Pantone: https://www.beeghlyandcompany.com/blogs/blog/reveling-in-pure-joy-viva-magenta-is-pantones-2023-color-of-the-year
Pinterest: https://pin.it/5KwP75Z
Textiles and DyesOn-line Resources:
https://www.neh.gov/humanities/2015/julyaugust/feature/red-all-over-how-tiny-bug-changed-the-way-we-see-the-world
Red All Over: How a Tiny Bug Changed the Way We See the WorldWhat makes the best red? The Spanish found out in sixteenth-century Mexico. HUMANITIES, July/August 2015, Volume 36, Number 4 Huejotzingo codex Padilla, Carmella, and Barbara Anderson. A Red Like No Other: How Cochineal Colored the World : an Epic Story of Art, Culture, Science and Trade. New York: Skira Rizzoli, 2015. Print.
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- The Woolery.com, Frankfort, Kentucky
- Catherine Ellis, Ellis Textiles, https://www.ellistextiles.com/
- Sarah Bellos of Stony Creek Colors, https://stonycreekcolors.com/
- Blog: http://riihivilla.blogspot.com/
- Blog: https://botanicalcolors.com/ Jubilee Farm, Carnation, Washington
- Blog Article: https://thelaurelofasheville.com/arts/visual-arts/penland-gallery-presents-further-evidence-the-art-of-natural-dyes/
Synthetic Dyes
- Rit Guide to Color Mixtures https://www.ritdye.com/color-formulas/2006-2016
- 1437 w. Morris Indianapolis, Indiana (Best Foods, CPC, Phoenix Brands)*
- Tintex https://www.tintex.ca/ https://www.tintex.ca/pages/fabric-dye-colour-guide
- Old Companies
| Dy-Ol-A Antique Dy-o-la Dye Cabinet Johnson - Richardson Company Burlington, Vermont |
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| Putnam, Monroe Chemical Company, Quincey, Illinois |
Diamond Dye and Tint Wells, Richardson, and Co., Burlington, Vermont
*"By 1925, metropolitan Chicago was well on its way to become one of the largest industrial cities in the world with the following major industries (listed and ranked according to their economic importance): “slaughtering/meat packing, printing/publishing, foundry/ metal working, electrical, clothing, iron/ steel making/milling, pipe fittings, food and personal care industries”(2). Many of these Chicago industries employed chemists, generally in support of their operations. Examples included Best Foods Laboratories, Swift and Co. in the stockyards, Armour’s nearby laboratories and Universal Oil Products suburban Riverside facilities providing petroleum refining process research support for the oil industry. This is a historical documentary about a number of individual chemists in Chicago who successfully established new specialty chemical(3) businesses during the 1920’s, ‘30’s and ‘40’s, many during the “Great Depression”, when synthetic organic chemistry was in its infancy. These remarkable, well-educated entrepreneurial chemical pioneers had several characteristics in common. They were courageous, determined risktakers who identified what the market needed, and worked to fulfill those needs. Most were good salesmen, or out of necessity, soon became one. Their professional careers in chemistry will be examined through the specialty chemical companies involved, including Best Foods Company, Emulsol, Witco, Ninol and Stepan. Some of these individuals were European immigrants who came to the U.S. looking for freedom and opportunity. They all labored and succeeded in America’s free market economy, and truly lived the “American Dream,” and it all started in Chicago. This historical documentary begins with the Best Foods Company. Best Foods Company (1898-2000) In 1922, giant conglomerate Corn Products Corporation’s Gold Dust subsidiary had its Best Foods consumer products division consolidate its various food and related consumer products operations, and established a relatively large laboratory in Chicago. Their product lines were gradually increased to include Kayro Corn Syrup, other syrups, jams, Mazola Corn Oil, Hellmann’s Mayonnaise, dressings, margarine, Shinola Polish, Gold Dust soap products, laundry starches and others. Because of its size, Best Foods was able to attract a number of well-educated chemists. Some were graduates of the University of Chicago, while others were European immigrants seeking better opportunities in the “New World.” By 1933, in the midst of the “Great Depression” President-elect Franklin D. Roosevelt proposed a job saving program, asking employers to retain their employees, putting them on a half time basis with reduced pay. For necessary cost and job saving measures, Best Foods’ management decided to follow the President’s recommendation. Thus, their employee’s work was reduced to halftime with drastically reduced wages. As an incentive to keep its chemists, Best Foods allowed their lab personnel to utilize their lab facilities pursuing projects of their own choosing, working on their own free time. Some used this opportunity to develop new and patentable products and processes for themselves (4). Over the years, it would turn out that Best Foods Laboratories proved to be a training ground for many of their chemists, especially during and right after the “Great Depression.” Some left the company and established their own specialty chemical companies, while others would leave to join those who already started new businesses. This group of former Best Foods chemists, included Russian immigrant Dr. Wolf Kritchevsky, a well-educated dye expert, who left Best Foods in about 1934 to start Rit Products Company in Chicago, and whose patents on alkylolaminefatty acid condensation products (later to be named Ninols) would contribute to his sons starting Ninol Laboratories in Chicago in 1940 (4). Morris B. Katzman and Albert K. Epstein also working on their own free time secured a patent on certain fatty amide emulsifying agents. Immigrant chemist, Albert K. Epstein left Best Foods in 1935 to become president of his new chemical company called Emulsol Corporation. Other chemists of Best Foods left and joined Emulsol including Benjamin R. Harris, Morris B. Katzman, Frank J. Cahn, and John J. Morrisroe (4). Katzman and Cahn later, in 1952, would leave Emulsol to start Process Chemicals Company in Los Angeles (4,5). John Morrisroe left Emulsol in 1951, invented his SO2 solvent SO3 sulfonation process (6), and started Pilot Chemical Company in Santa Fe Springs, California in 1952 (7). Best Foods continued to grow globally as the largest international food giant, constantly undergoing acquisitions, mergers, an occasional unit spin off, and frequent name changes. Corn Products Refining Company and Best Foods Inc. merged in 1959, and later in 1969 changed its name to C.P.C. International. In 1996 C.P.C. International had sales of $9.8 billion and they again split off Best Foods during 1997. Unilever acquired Best Foods in 2000 (8). (1) The author of this historical documentary was employed by Ninol Laboratories from 1945-1957, and by Stepan Co. from 1957 to 1987. (2) Cunningham, J. D. Chicago-The World’s Youngest Great City; American Publishers: Chicago, 1929; p 99. (3) Specialty chemicals are generally defined as chemical products or intermediates that contribute or impart special physical or chemical features and/or improved product performance properties or attributes to a formulation or consumer product. Generally the somewhat lower volume specialty chemicals’ unique features may warrant or com -mand a premium or price advantage which helps to differentiate them from the larger volume, chemically well defined, lower margin priced commodity chemicals. (4) Private communication on November 15, 1992 between Mr. Jerome Kritchevsky and the author discussing his father’s life history. (5) News, JAOCS, September 1952, p. 18. (6) Morrisroe, J. J., U.S. Patent 2,703,788, March 8, 1956. (7) History and timeline of Pilot Chemical Co." http://www.pilotchemicalco.com (accessed Feb. 2012). (8) CPC International Company history. http://www.cpcinter national.com https://chicagoacs.starchapter.com/images/downloads/Chemical_Bulletin/12sep_high.pdf
*"By 1925, metropolitan Chicago was well on its way to become one of the largest industrial cities in the world with the following major industries (listed and ranked according to their economic importance): “slaughtering/meat packing, printing/publishing, foundry/ metal working, electrical, clothing, iron/ steel making/milling, pipe fittings, food and personal care industries”(2). Many of these Chicago industries employed chemists, generally in support of their operations. Examples included Best Foods Laboratories, Swift and Co. in the stockyards, Armour’s nearby laboratories and Universal Oil Products suburban Riverside facilities providing petroleum refining process research support for the oil industry. This is a historical documentary about a number of individual chemists in Chicago who successfully established new specialty chemical(3) businesses during the 1920’s, ‘30’s and ‘40’s, many during the “Great Depression”, when synthetic organic chemistry was in its infancy. These remarkable, well-educated entrepreneurial chemical pioneers had several characteristics in common. They were courageous, determined risktakers who identified what the market needed, and worked to fulfill those needs. Most were good salesmen, or out of necessity, soon became one. Their professional careers in chemistry will be examined through the specialty chemical companies involved, including Best Foods Company, Emulsol, Witco, Ninol and Stepan. Some of these individuals were European immigrants who came to the U.S. looking for freedom and opportunity. They all labored and succeeded in America’s free market economy, and truly lived the “American Dream,” and it all started in Chicago. This historical documentary begins with the Best Foods Company. Best Foods Company (1898-2000) In 1922, giant conglomerate Corn Products Corporation’s Gold Dust subsidiary had its Best Foods consumer products division consolidate its various food and related consumer products operations, and established a relatively large laboratory in Chicago. Their product lines were gradually increased to include Kayro Corn Syrup, other syrups, jams, Mazola Corn Oil, Hellmann’s Mayonnaise, dressings, margarine, Shinola Polish, Gold Dust soap products, laundry starches and others. Because of its size, Best Foods was able to attract a number of well-educated chemists. Some were graduates of the University of Chicago, while others were European immigrants seeking better opportunities in the “New World.” By 1933, in the midst of the “Great Depression” President-elect Franklin D. Roosevelt proposed a job saving program, asking employers to retain their employees, putting them on a half time basis with reduced pay. For necessary cost and job saving measures, Best Foods’ management decided to follow the President’s recommendation. Thus, their employee’s work was reduced to halftime with drastically reduced wages. As an incentive to keep its chemists, Best Foods allowed their lab personnel to utilize their lab facilities pursuing projects of their own choosing, working on their own free time. Some used this opportunity to develop new and patentable products and processes for themselves (4). Over the years, it would turn out that Best Foods Laboratories proved to be a training ground for many of their chemists, especially during and right after the “Great Depression.” Some left the company and established their own specialty chemical companies, while others would leave to join those who already started new businesses. This group of former Best Foods chemists, included Russian immigrant Dr. Wolf Kritchevsky, a well-educated dye expert, who left Best Foods in about 1934 to start Rit Products Company in Chicago, and whose patents on alkylolaminefatty acid condensation products (later to be named Ninols) would contribute to his sons starting Ninol Laboratories in Chicago in 1940 (4). Morris B. Katzman and Albert K. Epstein also working on their own free time secured a patent on certain fatty amide emulsifying agents. Immigrant chemist, Albert K. Epstein left Best Foods in 1935 to become president of his new chemical company called Emulsol Corporation. Other chemists of Best Foods left and joined Emulsol including Benjamin R. Harris, Morris B. Katzman, Frank J. Cahn, and John J. Morrisroe (4). Katzman and Cahn later, in 1952, would leave Emulsol to start Process Chemicals Company in Los Angeles (4,5). John Morrisroe left Emulsol in 1951, invented his SO2 solvent SO3 sulfonation process (6), and started Pilot Chemical Company in Santa Fe Springs, California in 1952 (7). Best Foods continued to grow globally as the largest international food giant, constantly undergoing acquisitions, mergers, an occasional unit spin off, and frequent name changes. Corn Products Refining Company and Best Foods Inc. merged in 1959, and later in 1969 changed its name to C.P.C. International. In 1996 C.P.C. International had sales of $9.8 billion and they again split off Best Foods during 1997. Unilever acquired Best Foods in 2000 (8). (1) The author of this historical documentary was employed by Ninol Laboratories from 1945-1957, and by Stepan Co. from 1957 to 1987. (2) Cunningham, J. D. Chicago-The World’s Youngest Great City; American Publishers: Chicago, 1929; p 99. (3) Specialty chemicals are generally defined as chemical products or intermediates that contribute or impart special physical or chemical features and/or improved product performance properties or attributes to a formulation or consumer product. Generally the somewhat lower volume specialty chemicals’ unique features may warrant or com -mand a premium or price advantage which helps to differentiate them from the larger volume, chemically well defined, lower margin priced commodity chemicals. (4) Private communication on November 15, 1992 between Mr. Jerome Kritchevsky and the author discussing his father’s life history. (5) News, JAOCS, September 1952, p. 18. (6) Morrisroe, J. J., U.S. Patent 2,703,788, March 8, 1956. (7) History and timeline of Pilot Chemical Co." http://www.pilotchemicalco.com (accessed Feb. 2012). (8) CPC International Company history. http://www.cpcinter national.com https://chicagoacs.starchapter.com/images/downloads/Chemical_Bulletin/12sep_high.pdf
https://www.facebook.com/115024653479383/posts/157650745883440/?mibextid=rS40aB7S9Ucbxw6v
https://material-matters.cityandguildsartschool.ac.uk/pigment/in-conversation-pigment/
Grassroots Horticulture
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