Tuesday, August 18, 2020

Natural Fibers | Lace Collars in 17th Century Art

What does lace and art  have to do with horticulture? Many of threads and fibers are from an organic source. Silk from silk worms that feed on mulberry leaves; cotton from the cotton plant; hemp and jute used in making rope; and linen or flax from the flax plant. The motifs used in lace contain  leaf and floral patterns and the paints and dyes often contain plant sources to produce a myriad of colors. I have tried to pull together a few pieces of portrait art to compare the elaborate needlework of the time.

England

Charlotte Marguerite de Montmorency, ca 1610
Charlotte Montmorency's collar tucks under her neckline so only the serrated edge shows to form a bertha. The lace is still primitive.
Weiss Gallery London

Peter Paul Rubens (Flemish, 1577–1640), Portrait of Charlotte-Marguerite de Montmorency, Princess of Condé, c. 1609. Oil on canvas. Frick Art & Historical Center 1970.49.
.
Charlotte Marguerite de Montmorency (1594-1650) was an heiress of one of France's leading ducal families, and Princess de Condé by her marriage to Henri de Bourbon. She almost became a mistress of Henry IV of France, but her husband escaped with her after the wedding, and did not return to France until after King Henry's death in 1559.




Richard Sackville, 3rd Earl of Dorset, ca. 1613
 (1589, Charterhouse, London - 
1624, Dorset House, London) 
Residence, Knoll House.

Richard Sackville, 3rd Earl of Dorset wears elaborate clothing, probably for the wedding of the King's daughter Elizabeth in 1613. His doublet, shoes with pom poms, and the cuffs of his gloves are embroidered to match, and he wears a sleeved cloak on one arm and very full hose.
Procession for the wedding (February 14, 1613) of 
Elizabeth Stuart to Frederick V. 
An engraving by Abraham Hogenberg, c. 1613
Elizabeth StuartFriedrich V.

Portrait of Frederick believed to have been painted in 1613 the year of his marriage to Elizabeth
 by Michiel Jansz. van Mierevelt

Elizabeth Stuart, Queen of Bohemia
Elizabeth Stuart (1596 – 1662), the only surviving daughter of James I and VI and his wife Anne of Demark  at Dunfermline Palace in Fife.

Elizabeth Stuart (1596 – 1662), age 9



Elizabeth Stuart (1596 – 1662)
Queen of Bohemia


The Winter Queen
Elizabeth Stuart (1596 – 1662)


Frederick V, Elector Palatine
Frederick V, Count Palatine of the Rhine




George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham
 (1592 – )


George Villiers as Lord High Admiral
a portrait by Daniel Mytens the Elder












France


Federico Vinciolo, a leading Venetian designer, provided Catherine de Medici with lace neck ruffs in the French Court.

Margherita Gonzaga, Princess of Mantua, (1591-1632) 
 Duchess of Lorraine
early 17th century
Frans Pourbus, the Younger

Margherita Gonzaga, Princess of Mantua, (1591-1632) 
 Duchess of Lorraine
early 17th century
Artist, Frans Pourbus, the Younger

Margherita Gonzaga, Princess of Mantua, (1591-1632) was the eldest daughter of Vincenzo Gonzaga and Eleonora de' Medici. On 24 April 1606 she became the secon wife of Henry II, Duke of Lorraine. His first wife was Catherine of Navarre, sister of King Henry IV of France.




Marie de' Medicis (1573 -1642) , Queen of France, as a girl. 
By Scipione Pulzone? at the Pitti Palace.

Marie de Medici - http://demo.creativechaos.co/springwood/:
Portrait Of Maria De Medici Or Eleonora Di Garzia Di Toledo is a painting by Alessandro Allori


Maria de Medici (1573 -1642)  with her eldest son, Louis XIII, 1603 
by Charles Martin 
(Musée des Beaux-arts, Blois France)



Marie de Medici (1573 -1642)  in coronation dress
 by Frans II Pourbus the Younger (1610).

Marie de Medici in coronation dress, by Frans II Pourbus the Younger (1610). The Beau Sancy sits atop the coronation crown Passed down through the Royal Families of France, England, Prussia and the House of Orange, the 34.98 carat modified pear double rose cut diamond, which experts say came from the Golconda region in India, has been the silent, glittering witness of 400 years of European history. Most notably, the stone sat atop the magnificent crown worn by Marie de Medici in 1610.

Marie de Medici (1573 -1642)

Mary was married to Henry IV and was the 
mother of Louis XIII.



Elisabeth de France

Elisabeth Bourbon of France, Queen of Spain, eldest daughter of King Henry IV. of France and Maria de Medici, first Wife of King Philip IV of Spain.
Point Coupé.—(Vinciolo.)



 Elisabeth de France 
by Frans Pourbus the Younger 
ca. 1615
Staatliche Kunsthalle, KarlsruheGermany

Elisabeth Bourbon of France, Queen of Spain, eldest daughter of King Henry IV. of France and Maria de Medici, first Wife of King Philip IV of Spain.

Elisabeth de France 
by Frans Pourbus (Palazzo Pitti), 17th century

Elisabeth Bourbon of France, Queen of Spain, eldest daughter of King Henry IV. of France and Maria de Medici, first Wife of King Philip IV of Spain.


Princess Christine Marie de France
by Frans Pourbus II 
1612

Princess Christine Marie de France
1615

Christine Marie de France, the second daughter of Henri IV and his second wife, Marie de Medici - painted around 1615, when she was nine and had just received the honorary title of 'Madame Royale' - later she became Duchess of Savoy

Bildnis einer jungen adeligen Dame. Öl auf Leinwand.  17th century:Michiel Jansz van - Mierevelt Portrait of a young aristocratic Dame (Orange bows, brooch)
Image result for image result for paulus moreelse portrait of a young lady
Paulus Moreelse Dutch, 1571-1638. Portrait of a Young Lady, c. 1620



Henri II de Montmorency (1595 Chantilly, Oise – 1632) 
French nobleman and military commander.

Portrait du duc de Montmorency par un peintre anonyme, Musée du Louvre
Portrait du duc de Montmorency par un peintre anonyme,
Musée du Louvre

Portrait of a Frenchman 1610-22
Pourbus, Frans the Younger, ca. 1615
Art Gallery of New South Wales


MAXIMILIEN, MARQUIS OF ROSNY (1587-1634)
ATTRIBUTED TO FRANS POURBUS II (ANTWERP 1569-1622 PARIS)

ATTRIBUTED TO FRANS POURBUS II (ANTWERP 1569-1622 PARIS) PORTRAIT OF A GENTLEMAN, TRADITIONALLY IDENTIFIED AS MAXIMILIEN, MARQUIS OF ROSNY (1587-1634), HALF-LENGTH, IN A SLASHED AND GOLD-EMBROIDERED DOUBLET WITH A BLUE EMBROIDERED SASH AND A LACE COLLAR



 Henri (II) de Rohan (1579 – 1638), Duke of Rohan and Prince of Léon
 French soldier, writer and leader of the Huguenots
 French general, politician
 Rohan, portrait, based on painting by Tassaert, engraving


 Henri (II) de Rohan (1579, Brittany – 1638). Henri was the second son of the Viscomte de Rohan and born August 21, 1579. The family was considered a dynasty in France and he was cousin to Henry of Narrave, later King Henry VI of France. The Rohan family was well connected throughout Europe.


He began his military career at the age of sixteen and quickly distinguished himself in battle and strategy. Queen Elizabeth I called him her personal knight and he was named Godfather to Charles I. In 1603, Rohan was made a peer and given the title duke by Henry VI. Two years later he married Duc de Sully’s daughter and solidified his prominence among the French nobility.Henri (II) de Rohan married Marguerite de Béthune (1595 - 1660), the daughter of the Maximilien, the Duke of Sully and his second wife Rachel de Cochefilet.


Henri (II) de Rohan (1579 – 1638)










The Cobbe painting of English playwright William Shakespeare is considered to be the most authentic picture of the Bard painted within his lifetime. But not all Shakespeare scholars agree. The Cobbe portrait is inscribed with the words 'Principum amicitias!', meaning 'the alliances of princes!', a quotation from Horace in an ode addressed to a man who was, among other things, a playwright


William Shakespeare

Pieter van der Broecke, ca. 1633
Frans Hals, 
Iveagh Bequest, Kenwood, London






Sources for 16th, 17th and 18th Costumes and Accessories_________
 Needlework patterns, Les Singuliers et Nouveaux Pourtaicts, was published in many editions between 1587 and 1623.
An unabridged reprint of a 1909 facsimile of this book was issued by Dover Books as Renaissance Patterns for Lace, Embroidery
and Needlepoint in 1971.


Fibers | Silk_____________________________
Griffin, https://www.griffin.de/en/
Guetermann, (https://www.guetermann.com/en)
DMC (satin/rayon floss), https://www.dmc.com/us/thread-5000/,
Clover, https://www.clover-usa.com/en/
YLI (Yarn Loft International,  https://ylicorp.com/)
https://www.burlingtonfabrics.com/


Fibers | Linen____________________________






HISTORY OF THE BARBOUR FLAX SPINNING COMPANY, PATERSON, NEW JERSEY Taken from “The Co-Operator,” newspaper of the Barbour Mills V1 N3 June 22, 1918 The parent establishment of this Company, that of William BARBOUR & Sons, is in Lisburn, Ireland, where their mills have been running since 1785. In 1864, when the duty was taken from Flax Machinery, the house of William Barbour & Sons determined to establish branch works in Paterson. The manufacture of Shoe Threads and Linen Thread, where are largely used in various leather manufactures, was begun on a liberal scale in mills called “Passaic Flax Thread Works,” driven by water power and employing 450 hands. This mill was also known as “Passaic Mill No. 2” and was formerly run by John COLT, for the weaving of fine sheetings and cotton duck. The mill is known at present as “Barbour Flax Spinning Co., Spruce Street Mill.” An extensive department was established for the spooling of Linen Threads, imported in a bundle. A manufactory known as “Arkwright Mills” was also started for the manufacture of Flax Twines and the coarser grades of goods. The business steadily increased from 1864 to 1872 when the foundations of the Grand Street Mill were laid and additional machinery was ordered from Ireland, but the revenue oppression of 1872 checked the enterprise. In 1877, the erection of this mill proceeded. It was originally 50 feet front on Grand Street by 250 feet deep, and four stories high. It was one of the finest mills in this section of the country at that time and it had scarcely been stocked with machinery and occupied before plans were laid to increase the floor space and, in 1878 the building was enlarged to 50 by 400 feet. In February 1879, the Spruce Street Mill was destroyed by fire. It was at once rebuilt, an imitation in all respects of the Grand Street Mill. In the year 1881, the present Barbour Flax Spinning Co., A.H. Hart Mill, was constructed and was then known as the Granite Mill, from the stone used in its construction. In 1889, a third addition to the Grand Street Mill was made, making its present size 500 feet, and since this time, numerous buildings have been added, the principal ones being the 1903 building, facing on Grand Street, and the new storehouse, on the corner of Dale Avenue and Grand Street, which was built one year later. The Grand Street Mill still has on its staff several actively engaged employees whose term of service dates back to the early constructive period. 





 by The Passaic County Historical Society 




Fibers | Cotton____________________________


Cotton is a soft, fluffy staple fiber that grows in a boll, or protective case, around the seeds of the cotton plants of the genus Gossypium in the mallow family Malvaceae. The fiber is almost pure cellulose. Under natural conditions, the cotton bolls will increase the dispersal of the seeds.

The plant is a shrub native to tropical and subtropical regions around the world, including the Americas, Africa, Egypt and India. The greatest diversity of wild cotton species is found in Mexico, followed by Australia and Africa. Cotton was independently domesticated in the Old and New Worlds.

https://www.ica-ltd.org/

http://www.cotton.org/

http://www.ncto.org/





Fibers |Jute_____________________________

Jute is a long, soft, shiny vegetable fiber that can be spun into coarse, strong threads. It is produced primarily from plants in the genus Corchorus, which was once classified with the family Tiliaceae, and more recently with Malvaceae. The primary source of the fiber is Corchorus olitorius, but it is considered inferior to Corchorus capsularis. "Jute" is the name of the plant or fiber used to make burlap, hessian or gunny cloth.

Jute is one of the most affordable natural fibers, and second only to cotton in the amount produced and variety of uses. Jute fibers are composed primarily of the plant materials cellulose and lignin. It falls into the bast fiber category (fiber collected from bast, the phloem of the plant, sometimes called the "skin") along with kenaf, industrial hemp, flax (linen), ramie, etc. The industrial term for jute fiber is raw jute. The fibers are off-white to brown, and 1–4 metres (3–13 feet) long. Jute is also called the golden fiber for its color and high cash value. Rope and Cord, Knot and Rope 


Fibers|Hemp_____________________________

Hemp, or industrial hemp (from Old English hænep), typically found in the northern hemisphere, is a strain of the Cannabis sativa plant species that is grown specifically for the industrial uses of its derived products or abaca grown in the Philipines for Manilla hemp. It is one of the fastest growing plants and was one of the first plants to be spun into usable fiber 10,000 years ago. It can be refined into a variety of commercial items including paper, textiles, clothing, biodegradable plastics, paint, insulation, biofuel, food, and animal feed.

Making rope in Sweden:  https://m.facebook.com/hardangermaritime/?refid=7&_ft_=qid.6905359271361299717%3Amf_story_key.-4066767941137542679%3Atop_level_post_id.3667629026628168%3Acontent_owner_id_new.226194060771699%3Aoriginal_content_id.2559806247380650%3Aoriginal_content_owner_id.170024736358825%3Apage_id.226194060771699%3Asrc.22%3Aphoto_id.788484161484473%3Astory_location.5%3Aattached_story_attachment_style.video_autoplay%3Aview_time.1607779243%3Afilter.h_nor%3Atds_flgs.3%3Aott.AX-YRdoR3Qww75_v&__tn__=CH-R




Reference:
  • Textile Conservation, Frances Lennard

https://youtu.be/uEaE0bx5O2I






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